Don’t Tell Mom I’m Kayaking Around Ireland…

Next summer (2023), I will attempt to kayak solo around Ireland to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research.

This is for my mom who’s in the early stage of the disease. She’s doing well, getting her steps in every day, and facing her diagnosis with courage and resilience. She signed me up for kayaking lessons when I was a hyper kid in need of an outlet. I owe her for introducing me to this sport and for putting up with my nerve-wracking adventures over the years.

The kayakers who have taken this journey modestly refer to it as The Lap. It’s a 1500KM (950 mile/ 800 nautical mile) voyage through some of the roughest water and most rugged coastline in the North Atlantic. Fewer than 100 people have completed a Lap, and only 30 or so have done it solo.

Depending on the weather, it will take 4-6 weeks. I’ll camp on beaches and islands every night and spend 10 to 12-hours per day in the boat, often many miles from shore. I will be unsupported, carrying all the gear I need and ten days of food at a time.

I’ll be documenting my Lap in a newsletter. Every week, I’ll send out a short email about how my training, fundraising, and planning are going. I’ll also include photos and stories from life on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, where my wife, Dominique, and I are winterizing a pebbledash cottage.

When I set off next June, this newsletter will become my daily “Captain’s Log” for the voyage.

I’m looking forward to sharing this adventure with you!

-Charlie

Rockpool Taran 16 sea kayak in Bantry Bay, Ireland
Photo by Charles Daly

“Rubbers” are “Erasers”

I made up my mind to leave Ireland sometime in my second month of living with a hole in the roof of my attic bedroom in a shared house.

 

I’m not from Ireland, so leaving was not some immigrant story. The hole in the roof was not a mater of squalor or deprivation. I feel the need to mention this because, in my experience, people only hear the things that confirm what they already picture when think of a place. I started saying “overseas” when asked where I live, because idiots are always saying “top of the morning to ya.” And, it turns out, Ireland is Jerusalem for sloppy drunk girls who like accents and the dad-bod.

 

My time in Ireland wasn’t drunk and green. The girl I was with there wasn’t typical of Ireland or anywhere.

 

Kit was someone who could see the fun and beauty in a soggy roof hole. She would wear her coat, with the hood up, on trips to the bathroom and always make this big thing of taking it off again, twirling the waist belt like a striptease.

 

One time she bought me a plant and put it under the leak saying, “That’s the only way it’ll get watered, knowing you.”

Which is not to say the hole in the ceiling was a metaphor or a signifier for a shambolic relationship. It couldn’t have been because, unlike most of our issues, I was the one to see it first.

 

dublin-airport-writer

 

A dark stain in the plaster had been growing pretty much since I arrived. The night it started dripping onto my desk, I moved the desk, put out my waste bin to catch the drip, and went back to bed. A few nights later, a deluge broke through where the plaster had been damming rainwater between the ceiling and roof beams and brought down  a soggy tongue of yellow insulation. From then on, there was draft in my room and the rain came in directly.

 

To repair it would have been expensive and not really my responsibility, considering my status as attic-dweller separated me by at least a couple degrees from the leaseholder and the landlord.

 

My housemates greeted the hole with apathy and amusement.

 

Kit and I found it bonding to come sopping and start each fuck with the chaste desire to get warm.

 

But, of course, this got old. Nobody likes wearing a winter coat that won’t dry or sleeping in a room that smells wet. I could have moved, but something told me I wasn’t going to get a rarer memory of Ireland than this. So when I got tired of the hole, time had come to head West.

 

Back in New England, in the spring, I would text Kit pictures of things they don’t have in Ireland, like whitetail deer and wild turkeys in the backyard, and complain to her about the bugs that I would trade for the rain and the damp any day. She would reply with grey skies and sneaky pictures of the billowing short-sleeve button-down “granddad shirts” Irish men over 40 wear on sunny days.

 

She texts me “Goodnight” around dinnertime, and I say “Good Morning” when she’s having lunch.

 

Montréal, 2017 

Writing All Night in Dublin Airport

Note: the following was written, edited, and published in the middle of an all-nighter. All typos and style fails are strictly rhetorical.
(Dec, 2016)

I’m writing this in Terminal 2 at Dublin Airport at four in the morning. I’ve decided to turn an overnight layover into an espresso-fueled writing spree. Here’s what I got up to during my impromptu residence.

I Observed and Took Notes

What was cool about spending a waking night in an airport is that all the people I was people-watching were doing the same thing, but they were all doing it differently.

Some people clutched their luggage while they slept, some knew my leg-hooked-through-the-pack-strap trik. One young lady seemed to be having a staring contest with her upright rolling luggage, totally paranoid. One guy slept with his feet up on a luggage cart.

Other people didn’t seem worried enough about their bags.

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Irish Farmhouse – a Sketch

The farmhouse two miles out the Beach  road near Bantry belonged to a man named Jackie. The House was built tight against the road, or maybe before the road, and faces the North Atlantic with two fields between the house and a stone beach. Winter gales from the north and west produce waves powerful enough to hurl seaweed and stones the size of bread loafs into the fields. Local farmers add seaweed to their fertilizer. When it rains, the runoff from the fields stains the baywater a tea-with-milk brown.

 

Jackie and his sheepdog used to sit out front and watch the road. Whenever a car or a walker passed, Jackie would wave with two fingers in the shape of an  imaginary pistol. Irish drivers call this “saluting.”An easy way to mark yourself as a tourist, a snob, or a bore is not to salute. Jackie was known for saluting so fast you could almost miss it. And so in town his nickname was “the fastest gun in the west.”

 

 

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